As a new member, one of the benefits of attending programs is the opportunity to become familiar with the 'legends' in the community. That was the case when Sarah Lashes, acclaimed whip maker, shared her intimate knowledge of her craft with SOJ on a program on the purchase and care of floggers. While her lilting British accent was easy on the ears, her self-deprecating humor and obvious enjoyment of what she does made this a program that all were reluctant to see end.

While commonly thought of as single-tailed, in actuality the whip is any instrument with a rod, thong, or lash attached to a handle. Consequently, Sarah's program covered a broad spectrum, including what most of us simply call a flogger, a multiple-tailed whip with a solid handle. She opened with a segment on things to look for when buying a flogger. Balance should be checked, so that the flogger is balanced about 4-6 inches from the end of the handle. The handle should fit comfortably in the hand so that the fingers wrap around it with little overlap. The handle should be solid and sturdy, not spongy. A braided handle is stronger and will last longer. A tight braid in the handle is desired, and knot work should also be tight. The tails should be examined for the quality of the leather; there should be no horizontal scarring, which would indicate a flaw in the leather where the tail could break. The leather should be supple, not overly dry and stiff.

Sarah talked a bit about the variety of materials available for a whip. Although almost anything can be attached to a handle and used as a whip, for our purposes the primary discussion was on the hides. Lightest in this group was the plonge, which is an Italian cowhide. Along with deerskin, these both have a lot of thud and virtually no sting, making them ideal for warm-ups. Cowhide is heavier, has a soft thud, and can be used to introduce the sensation of sting. Bullhide delivers a solid thud, can 'pack a good punch', and has more bite than cow. Buffalo and elkskin are both very thick and heavy and deliver a deep thud. The oil- tanned "Bitchy Whip" has the leather tanned to a smooth, almost rubbery feel. Unlike some of the other leathers above, the oil-tanned has no give to the leather, which means it will not bounce off the skin, giving its thin tails both heavy thud and sting. The "Wide and Heavy" has tails a full inch wide (compared to the 3/8" of the Bitchy Whip), delivering what Sarah jokingly I think) equated to being hit by a 4x4. Using the same oil-tanned leather as the Bitchy Whip, the thick tails of the Wide and Heavy has a major impact with less bite. This was followed by a discussion of the braiding options available. The flat braid impacts a deep penetration with some bite. The traditional cat is fairly light with a round braid, which can create an intense sting.

After a discussion of how multiple things are important in setting up a scene, Sarah discussed safety issues. Not surprisingly, negotiation once again topped the safety list, followed closely by the ever-popular 'safeword'. It was noted that the top should be sure the bottom is comfortable using a safeword. Target zones were then discussed. On the back, certain off-limit areas were noted. Wrapping, which is the tails of the whip 'wrapping' around the body and striking an unintended target, is unsafe, as are blows to the spine, neck, kidneys, and tailbone. Sarah advised acknowledging any miss-hits, as otherwise the bottom may think that the top is so completely unaware of what they're doing that there may be reluctance to trust them again. The front of the body is not recommended for novices. The mini-flogger is well designed for front-of-the- body work. 'No Strike Zones' on the front include the abdominal area, as there are too many organs beneath the skin. Again, the neck area is a no-no. The legs do make acceptable targets.

Since one can expect to spend a minimum of $150 for a high-quality flogger, proper care to prolong its life is important. Sarah gave her recommendation to Lexol Cleaner and Lexol Conditioner for floggers and Piccard's leather condition for cats. Both can be located via the Internet. She recommended avoiding animal-based products, as these can promote bacteria and disintegration of the leather.

Sarah briefly showed several of the more basic techniques used, including side-shot, overhand, underhand, and a figure-8, which is a smooth flowing forehand-backhand combination. Following this, the BYOF (Bring Your Own Flogger) demo continued, with those in the audience encouraged to demonstrate and share with others tips and techniques that they have accrued over time.

Sarah is rightfully considered an artisan within the community, and her expertise and craftsmanship were evident during this program. As mentioned, this program literally went down to the wire, with the janitorial people giving us the bum's rush for overstaying our welcome. Blame it on Sarah, who got us all so caught up in her enthusiasm that we lost track of time. Personally speaking, this is another 'pillar of the community' that I am really grateful I had a chance to see, and I truly appreciate her taking the time to share her wit and wisdom with us.

Posted with permission from Society of Janus
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